Welcome to Iceland, our last European country en route to the Americas. This is geologically not quite true as Iceland sits on both the European AND American tectonic plates, so it is possible to have one foot in Europe and one in America! Historically and Politically, Iceland is most definitely Europe.

Iceland is the most sparsely populated country in Europe, having just under 400,000 inhabitants; its Capital, Reykjavik has 135,000 people with most communities dotted around the coast. It’s position on these moving tectonic plates means that there are earthquakes and volcanic activity as the plates grate and move over each other releasing energy. Iceland captures this geothermal and hydrothermal energy, meaning that electricity and heating is really cheap. It also means that energy intensive processes e.g. aluminium smelting is viable here. Other industries are Tourism, Fishing and the Movie Industry!

Fun Fact:

Tom Cruise has made enough films in Iceland, that he even has a house here.

With the abundant energy supply, Iceland are considering installing a cable to sell electricity to UK/Europe. The main birdlife seen here are Atlantic Puffins and Arctic Terns. The latter fly up from Antarctica in one month straight. To do this they feed up prior and then during the flight they rest one side of the brain at a time! The main animal here is the Arctic Fox, and main fish are cod, haddock, halibut, arctic char, trout and salmon.

A Little on the Settlement of Iceland:

In Greek mythology, there was an island in the north and west, shaped like a turtle. Vikings left from Norway around 870AD, and discovered a bay on the north coast of this island. Another navigator followed, but went off course ending up in the south of the Island. The weather was foul with snow, so it was named Iceland. On return this navigator told people not to go there.. Of course people didn’t listen and Norwegians still went back and a settlement started where Reykjavik is today.

There were Birch trees on Iceland when the Vikings arrived, but they cut down the trees for roofing and fire, so today even, trees are sparse, but efforts are being made to reforest the countryside. The countryside is littered with volcanic rocks and pillars; local myths and folklore point to the killing of Trolls becoming stone pillars.

Continued inhabitation of Reykjavik, led to a Parliament being founded in 930; the Althing, making it one of the world's oldest functioning legislative assemblies. King Olaf of Norway wanted to bring in Christianity, but a compromise was reached where Pagan customs were allowed to continue.

After a period of civil strife, Iceland acceded to Norwegian rule in the 13th century. In 1397, Iceland followed Norway’s integration into the Kalmar Union along with the kingdoms of Denmark and Sweden, coming under de facto Danish rule upon its dissolution in 1523. The Danish kingdom introduced Lutheranism by force in 1550, and the Treaty of Kiel formally ceded Iceland to Denmark in 1814.

It was not regarded as a good time as the Icelanders felt like 2nd class citizens; they received no assistance to deal with the destructive volcanic activity, and they were taking away all the fish. In1902 islanders got there fishing rights back, and in 1918 they gained their own flag.

Because of Iceland’s strategic position as a bridge between Europe and America, during World War II, the British saw fit to occupy it in 1941 in case Hitler ventured that way, given that had occupied most of Denmark. Hitler didn’t come and in 1944 a referendum was held and 99% voted for independence. During the Cold War, there were American bases on Iceland, for the same strategic protection between Russia and America; however in 2006 the Americans left. Iceland remains a member of NATO.

Crown Princess planned 3 post stops in Iceland, Reykyavik, Grundarfiordur and Isafiordur. Spoiler alert …. I didn’t get off the ship in Reykjavik, as I had been there 4 times previously, and a ‘low pressure’ system forced the Captain’s hand to cancel the Isafiordur stop, which was disappointing but understandable, as this would have been a new port for me.

However, we still have Grundarfiordur, which was still a new port for me. The actual port is on a peninsula, and being small, required the ship to use the Tender Boats to transfer people ashore. I chose an independent tour today, organised by a fellow passenger, they ended up getting 70 people interested, into 3 vehicles, for a third of the price Princess were charging for a similar tour.

The first stop was just outside of the town; Kirkjufellsfoss Waterfall, this majestic 20 metre waterfall is at the base of Kirkjufell, Iceland's most photographed mountain. The name Kirkjufell means ‘Church Mountain’ as it is considered to resemble a church. Danish sailors, who frequently visited this area in the olden days called this dignified mountain "Sukkertoppen" or the Sugar Top. Kirkjufellsfoss Waterfall gets split up by the rocks on the cliff face and makes it seem like multiple falls next to each other tumbling into the waters below. The name Kirkjufellsfoss translates to 'Church Waterfall' and in this case, the incredible view of the falls with the mountain in the backdrop does almost feel like aspiritual experience - absolutely breathtaking and awe-inspiring!

We drove along the coast road on the dramatic western edge of Iceland's Snaefellsnes Peninsula to Djúpalónssandur Black Beach – a captivating black-sand (volcanic sand) beach with shipwreck remnants and fascinating mystical lifting stones, in the form of four ancient lifting stones that still occupy the beach. The stones range in weight from 23 kg (50 Ibs) to155 kg (342 Ibs) and were used to test the strength of fishermen. We walked upon the beaches striking black pebble shores (protected by law against being removed), passing rusting remnants of a shipwreck, and took in panoramic views of the Atlantic. In 1948, the English trawler Epine GY 7 from Grimsby shipwrecked on the shore, with fourteen dead and five survivors. The rusty iron remains of the vessel remain scattered on the beach, now protected as a monument to those who perished. 

Our next stop was Lóndrangar Basalt Cliffs; these colossal basalt rock pinnacles rise dramatically from the sea as a result of underwater volcanic activity. Londrangar and the hill Svalthufa are the remains of a crater, which has been eroded to its present form by the sea. The area is full of mythology; the farmers in the area never made or make hay on the hill, because it is said to belong to the elves living in the area. Younger lava fields surround this old crater ruin. The higher pillar (75m) was first climbed in 1735 and the lower (61 m) in 1938. Below the hill is Thufubjarg cliff where according to a folktale the poet Kolbeinn Joklaskald had an encounter with the Devil. On these cliffs, puffins and fulmars have their nests.

We next visited Arnarstapi Fishing Village, a traditional Icelandic village with a dramatic coastline, shaped by centuries of volcanic activity and relentless ocean waves. It is lined with towering basalt cliffs, natural arches, and sea caves that shelter a variety of seabirds. We took a 30 minute walk along the cliff edge from one end of the village to the other, where a selection of restaurants facilitated a traditional lunch. As you would expect, fish is the local dish, in the form of a fish soup or as Fish & Chips. I went for a different direction, still an Icelandic traditional dish, and ordered a local lamb soup, Islensk kjötsúpa, typically made lamb with potatoes, carrots and cabbage, and served with rye bread.

The history of Arnarstapi is deeply intertwined with Icelandic sagas. Records of its settlement date back to the Bardar saga Snaefellsnes, which tells the story of Bardar, a half-human, half-ogre who once lived on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula and is still considered the area's guardian spirit.

Beyond the legends, Arnarstapi boasts a rich, centuries-long history, with a natural harbor that attracted settlers. When Iceland came under Danish control in the mid-1500s, Arnarstapi grew into an important trading post. The village thrived during the 18th and 19th centuries, and several buildings from that era, like the Danish Prefect's Residence, still stand today. Gatklettur arch is one of the best photo spots in Arnarstapi, again this basalt rock arch is shaped by erosion from the ocean, and is a popular attraction for birdwatchers, with large colonies of arctic tern nesting in the area.

Our final stop was at the Budakirkja (Budir Black Church), an iconic black painted church set against lava fields and Snæfellsjökull glacier. It is known for its black exterior and strikingly beautiful surroundings.

It is located in the small hamlet of Budir, and is one of the most photographed buildings in Iceland and one of the highlights of the Snaefellsnes peninsula. The church is not generally open to the public on a daily basis but is a popular venue for events such as weddings and concerts. The church has an organ and seating for up to fifty people, but there is no bathroom or running water!

The busses returned to Grundarfiordur, where we had some free time in the town before getting back to the ship via the tender boats. Crown Princess now heads to Canada, where there are 7 planned ports.